Here we present for you a brief overview of fabric weaves. When selecting a fabric to make your one-of-a-kind custom made shirts, the weave type is an important consideration.

THE BASICS

Broadcloth, twill, and Oxford are three most common weave styles used for making 100% cotton fabrics for men's dress shirts.

Broadcloth: Broadcloth is a plain weave fabric that is tightly woven, resulting in a smooth and lustrous finish. It is known for its durability and is often used for formal dress shirts. It is lighter in weight than Oxford and Twill fabrics and is often made with a higher thread count, which gives it a more luxurious feel. It has a soft hand-feel, making it comfortable to wear.

Twill: Twill is a weave pattern characterized by diagonal lines on the fabric surface. It is a bit thicker and heavier than broadcloth and has a more textured feel. Twill shirts have a matte finish, and the diagonal pattern is often visible. This style of weave also makes the fabric more wrinkle-resistant, making it ideal for workwear or casual shirts.

Oxford: Oxford is a weave style that is typically a bit thicker than broadcloth and has a more textured finish. It is made using a basketweave pattern and has a slightly rough texture, giving it a more casual appearance. Oxford shirts are versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. In an other post we will discuss the different Oxford styles, i.e. Pinpoint, Cambridge and Royal.

THE FANCY WEAVES

Do you desire texture? 

Then we suggest you consider dobby, herringbone, jacquard or end on end weaves which are specially woven to create a pattern or texture.

A herringbone weave is a type of fabric weave that creates a distinctive V-shaped pattern that resembles the bones of a fish. It is created by weaving the threads at a 45-degree angle, resulting in a pattern that alternates direction with a zigzag texture. This type of weave is often used for suits and outerwear, and can create a more textured, rugged appearance.

A dobby weave is a type of fabric weave that uses a special dobby loom to create small geometric patterns or textures in the fabric. The patterns are created by selectively raising and lowering the warp threads while weaving, allowing for a wide range of designs to be created. Dobby fabrics can range from subtle textures to intricate designs, and are often used for dress shirts.

A jacquard weave is a type of fabric weave that creates intricate and detailed patterns in the fabric. Jacquard weaves can create highly detailed and intricate patterns, while dobby weaves are limited to geometric patterns.

An end-on-end weave is a type of fabric weave that is created by alternately weaving two different colored threads, typically white and a color, to create a subtle yet distinctive texture.

The warp and weft threads are different colors, creating a heathered or mottled appearance. This type of weave is often used for dress shirts and can give the fabric a unique and subtle visual interest.